Day 10 Mannheim and Heidelberg

14th September

The old part of Mannheim is interesting because it is laid out on a grid pattern into blocks which makes it easy to see where you are. The main point of interest in Mannheim is the former Elector’s Palace. It was modelled on Versailles and building began in 1720 when the Elector Karl III Philip moved the court from Heidelberg. It is now used by the University. Cultural life in Mannheim flourished under Karl Theodor.

In musical history Mannheim is famous for its orchestra and the development of the symphony. Mozart described the orchestra as being ‘the best in Germany . It consists of people who are young and upright, not drunkards, rakes and gamblers.’ He is commemorated on the wall of the palace church where he attended services and played the organ. His stay in Mannheim in 1777 as part of the long trip to Paris was productive musically.  However he also fell in love with Aloysia Weber and wanted to cancel the onward trip to Paris and go to Vienna with them. His father however put his foot down saying basically  ‘look here, lad, get yourself to Paris and earn some money.’ His mother was dispatched to Mannheim to make sure that’s what he did. When Mozart finally caught up with the family again (1781 in Vienna), Aloysia had married someone else, so he married her sister, Constanza, instead! Both of them performed in his operas and concerts so they obviously all got on.

The interior of the Schlosskirche, Mannheim

Although the building is now used by the University of Mannheim some of the living quarters can be visited. They have a restrained grandeur and it is easy to imagine the opulence of the Mannheim court of the Electors.

Palace forecourt, Mannheim

The Jesuit church in Mannheim turned out to be a jewel in the crown. Although it doesn’t get much of a mention in the guide books other than it is a baroque church with a neoclassical facade the interior is sumptuous. The use of different shades of green and white marble give a fantastically clean and rich feel.

Jesuit Church, Mannheim

Heidelberg is said to be one of the most beautiful cities in Germany. It’s easy to imagine that this is the case.  Lying in the Neckar valley the city is dominated by the mysterious and romantic Heidelberg castle. It was built and rebuilt between the 13^th and 17^th centuries as a well fortified gothic castle and seat of Wittelsbach palatines. (Palatines are nobles who are granted powers to make decisions in theor own lands by the pope. It ceased to have any meaning in the 14th century, I think, and was an honorary title.) The castle's importance was diminished during the Thirty Years War and it was more or less destroyed by war with the French in 1689. It’s a fascinating place to wander around with its mixture of styles and romance.

Heidelberg Castle

The place has inspired artists and writers over the years. Turner did a painting of Heidelberg castle. Goethe lived in Heidelberg for a time and often soaked up the atmosphere; there is a

The Goethe Seat, Heidelberg Castle gardens

memorial to Goethe near his favourite seat in the garden. Mark Twain describes the castle in ‘A Tramp Abroad.’  On his trip to Paris Mozart visited the castle and saw the recently installed ‘Great Tun.’ This is an enormous barrel into which was put wine which the locals had to contribute as a form of tax. The wine must have been very rough but it must have been good enough for the nobility!

The Great Tun, Heidelberg

Two churches of real note in Heidelberg are the Heiligegeistkirche, Church of the  Holy Ghost, and the Jesuit church.

The late gothic Church of the Holy Ghost is in the Market Square. For centuries covered market stalls have been set up between the buttresses. It is unusual in that the church was shared by Protestants and Catholics since the Reformation.

Church of the Holy Spirit, Heidelberg

 The Elector Karl III Philip tried to give it back to the Catholics in 1720; but the fuss that followed resulted in the screen that separated them being put back. It was only removed in 1936 and since then it has been a protestant church. 

The reality is that we didn’t leave enough time for Heidelberg.  It was worth seeing the interior of the palace at Mannheim, but Heidelberg merits several days rather than several hours. One final little bonus for me was to look up from the table where we were having something to eat to see a plaque ‘Robert Schumann lived here.’  He had gone to Heidelberg University to study Law. In fact, in spite of promising his father that he was turning up to lectures he never set foot in the Law faculty but spent all his time on Music. Naturally his dad was not happy; there was no money in music and it wasn’t a suitable profession...............!